July 20, 2024
Once More unto the Beav
There are a lot of fantastic hikes in Eagle County, Colorado. I mention this because, frankly, this hike is probably a ways down the list. Don’t get me wrong … Upper Turquoise Lake is a beautiful destination for someone in the mood for a moderately-sloped sixteen mile out-and-back. But that in itself makes it quite a niche experience.
At any rate, I enjoyed this hike. The first quarter and last quarter of the route follow the Beaver Lake/Royal Elk Trails, largely within the boundaries of Beaver Creek ski resort. Since the linked post already describes those routes, I’ll just focus on the “middle half” of the hike that is unique to Turquoise Lakes.
The hike begins at the main village in Beaver Creek. Outside of ski season, you can park for free in their Ford Hall or Villa Montaine parking garages. Then it’s just a quick set of escalator rides up to the hiking trails. I find it very important I can ride the escalators through the village to get to my hiking trails. I understand the irony of this.
Beaver Lake Trail
From the village, I walked along the beautiful Five Senses Trail a short ways up the eponymous Beaver Creek until it dumped me out onto the road towards their Talons complex. A short road walk brought me to the start of the Beaver Lake Trail (no parking allowed up here!). That trail continues through the resort, passing under some ski lifts before crossing out of bounds and into the Holy Cross Wilderness. You can read more about it here.
Beaver Lake itself is … fine. It’s a natural lake within the Holy Cross Wilderness, surrounded on all sides by pine trees. You see forested slopes and still waters from its shores. But the view is not exactly breath-taking. I want to emphasize this because, first, a notable chunk of folks hike here most summer weekends, probably at the recommendation of Beaver Creek staff. And second, the much further and remote Turquoise Lakes actually do have some stunning views. But almost no one hikes all the way out to them.
Onwards to Turquoise Lakes
While most everyone staying in Beaver Creek turns around at Beaver Lake, the trail continues far, far beyond. It’s another five miles and 1,600 vertical feet to Upper Turquoise Lake. This latter lake sits just below treeline, at 11,300 feet above sea level. That’s basically the same altitude as the top of Beaver Creek’s lift system—and nearly 3,300 vertical feet above the village you start at.
I had long noted this route on maps. The trail leads to the source of Beaver Creek (the creek, not the ski resort). It extends through a deep and narrow valley into the heart of the Holy Cross Wilderness, and the northernmost Sawatch. The lakes sit nestled under the steep, rocky slopes of Grouse Mountain and Mount Jackson.
Despite all this geological drama, the trail is very tame. It rises slowly, and monotonically. Never steep or rugged. It hews close to Beaver Creek the whole way, crossing it numerously times on increasingly small bog bridging.
Over the River and through the woods … again and again and again
The Turquoise Lakes are beautiful, but I really need to emphasize … this is a rather long hike for a pair of lakes. Sixteen miles in total. And that’s if the Centennial Lift is running (more on that later).
The five miles between Beaver and Turquoise Lakes are lush and secluded. The narrow dirt trail crosses the creek at least a half dozen times. It alternates between thick stands of pines and open, boggy meadows. I have a hunch their can be bad mosquitos back here if you it this area immediately post snow-melt. But while it was quite humid and thick when I visited, it was devoid of those evil creatures.
I kept hoping I might spot a moose or some other large mammal of note. There definitely seemed to be ample moose habitat. But no such luck. One thing I did not see at all beyond Beaver Lake: other people. This trail was truly deserted.
Eventually, the trees began to thin, and rocky ridge lines with veins of snowpack loomed above. I could tell the lakes were drawing closer!
The Turquoise Lakes
The meadows grew larger and longer. I could see I was nearing tree line, and, inevitably the lakes. Lower Turquoise Lake came first, sensibly enough. This lake was about as underwhelming as Beaver Lake … just a marshy muddle amidst the meadows. The wildflowers down here were pretty excellent though.
Not to be discouraged, I pushed onward to Upper Turquoise Lake. I mean, I had come this far. Well, it turns out three times is the charm—because this lake had amazing views. By now, the trees were sparse, and a dramatic rocky cirque ringed the back half of the lake. I had the scene all to myself (half the wow factor, in post-COVID Colorado).
Almost as soon as I arrived, I noticed something remarkable: cutthroat trout! The lake (and the start of Beaver Creek as well) was swarming with the fish. They swam right up to me and my shadow looming over them. Colorado Parks and Wildlife stock numerous alpine lakes with these native fish. They have been crowded out of lower waterways by invasive (and popular) Rainbow Trout. But up here, where few fisherman bother to hike, they seem to thrive.
The Return Journey
When it was time to turn around, I still had a bit less than half of my hiking ahead of me. My plan was to descend back to Beaver Lake, but then turn right onto the Royal Elk Trail once I was back on-resort.
This is not the “lowest effort” way back to Beaver Creek Village. In fact, it adds about 800 vertical feet to an already long day of hiking. But it shaves off perhaps a mile IF the Centennial Lift is running (usually until 4:30 pm on summer days). It’s also just a nice treat to descend via gondola instead of by foot.
And so a few hours later I was up at the Spruce Saddle Lodge, enjoying the views and a cold beverage. Beaver Creek is hardly thronged in summer, but it’s certainly humming with activity. It was kind of neat to consider I was perhaps the only person to wander deep behind the resort that day, and say hello to the trout of Upper Turquoise Lake.
